Well...here I am trying to find the right words to best describe our time in Brazil. There are so many different pictures and feelings and impressions in my head - all of them so unique and memorable - that I don't know where to start.
Perhaps I just start right where it all began. It was a Wednesday evening and after 4 hours flight, we cought the first glimpse of Rio de Janeiro. Flickering lights, green, yellow, red, all colours, tiny cars zipping like ants across big city streets, then tall dark mountains reaching into the even darker Atlantic Ocean as far as the eye could see. As we descended further towards Rio International Airport, we were greeted by the mighty spot lights shining bright onto the statue of big old JC. It was difficult to keep our excitment under control, partly because ...well, this was Brazil ! And partly also because a dear friend of mine, Gil Garces, and his girlfriend Guna, both of whom I had not seen in two years, were going to be our hosts, our travel and adventure companions.
Before our arrival in Brazil, Gil had proudly informed me that he bought an original 1970s Volkswagen Camper Van for our trip along the coast and deep into the mountains and forests of Brazil. Trying my best to not be so German and worry about all the things that could go wrong, I was actually really looking forward to traveling in an old-timer that made me look young and fit. And after all, the worst that could happend would be for it to fall apart and us getting stuck at a lonely white sandy blue lagoon with coconut trees and Caipirinhas for breakfast everyday :-) Joking aside, we nearly did ;-)
So, after touch down at Rio Airport we picked up our bags and went straight outside into the humid warm breeze that was still lingering in the air at midnight. First came the sound, a deep put put put put put put as is typical for VW engines. Then came a smokey cloud, as is typical for any old car that is running on fewer cylinders than it should. Then came the distinct smell of leaking petrol, and finally we spotted the "Old Lady" turning around the corner in all its glory. And what a sight it was with Gil at the steering wheel trying to frantically beep the car horn, which made absolutely no noise whatsoever as it had died a long time ago. After we happily and merrily greeted each other over and over again, we climbed aboard and drove off kangaroo style with Gil trying to accelerate, break and work the clutch all at the same time to find the right speed, and me holding the side door shut because the lock had completely rusted away and would not close. I knew right there and then that we were going to have an unforgettably fantastic five weeks in Brazil !
Over the course of the following weeks we really got to know Rio from all its sides. Gil had a wonderful house with a big Mango tree full of fruits that the monkeys and bats would nibbled at during the night. It was in the quiet and peaceful city part of Santa Teresa, on a green and sunny hillside overlooking Rio City, the Rio Bay and Sugar Loaf Mountain. Santa Teresa has many old colonial style houses with Portuguese influence yet a very Brasilian flair, small cobbled streets winding up and down the hills with a handful of street cafes and bars. A perfect place to escape the sometimes overpowering noise, traffic, bad smell and aggression that Rio is also fameous for. It is by no means all Samba and smiles! Many nights we were woken up by gun shots and the sound of automatic riffle fire taktaktaktaktaktak coming from a neighbouring favela just a few streets away from us. The very rich and the very poor live literally side by side and although there was a heavy police presence on the ground and in the air (military helicopters with mashine guns sticking out and flying low above the beach like in a war movie), one can only spectulate what happens when the football world cup is over and the money runs out to forcefully protect the peace.
We are not going to bore you with a detailed daily Rio diary. Suffice to say that Gil and Guna had to work during the first weeks, and we explored the city mostly by ourselves yet with helpful guidance by our hosts. Ipanema, Flamengo, Urca, Leblon and Copacobana Beach were our best friends. We had afternoon tea with Jesus, visited the Botancical Gardens, cycled up and down Rio and discovered a lot of hidden treasures that you won't find in any tourist guide. We spent a day and a night in a Favela, during day in a school and at night at a typical weekend street party. Both very enjoyable and educational. Here are some photos
And then the real Brazilian adventure started! Because you cannot under any circumstances fly to Rio and not see the real beauty this country has to offer outside is huge, stinky megacities. When Gil and Guna's holidays started, we prepared the Old Lady, packed our bags i.e. swimming shorts, blankets and a box of matches for our daily BBQ, and off we went into the sunset. South of Rio past Barra de Tijuca and Santa Cruz to Barra de Guaratiba then North to Cabo Frio and into the mountains and rain forest of Sana, further on to the Atlantic Forest and mountains of Ibitipoca. It is very difficult to describe what we experienced during those weeks. I have used words like amazing, wonderful, magnificent, unique, extraordinary already so many times that it feels their meaning has worn of a little. So, please take a look at our pictures and imagine what we have seen a hundred times more! And even then it is missing so many great impressions that we had...
South of Rio /Guaratiba and Ilha Grande photos https://picasaweb.google.com/110475049385279629687/BarraDeGuaratibaAndIlhaGrandeBrazil2014?authkey=Gv1sRgCKG_9bTdr4uQGw&noredirect=1
North of Rio /Cabo Frio, Sana and Ibitipoca https://picasaweb.google.com/110475049385279629687/BarraDeGuaratibaAndIlhaGrandeBrazil2014?authkey=Gv1sRgCKG_9bTdr4uQGw&noredirect=1
A final word. If you ever come to Rio, take 4-5 days aside, travel into the mountains of Ibitipoca and walk to the Window Of The World. It is a 14km and 8 hour hike over the mountains into the forest and through a small river bed. You will swim the last few meters and arrive at the top of a small waterfall overlooking the world. I shall finish with the simple words of Speechless and Breathtaking !
Brazil, we will be back for sure !
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